Door Part - Lambo Lounge

Body - Door Part

In this section I am going to add a lot of photos and try my best to explain, in "great detail" how to get the doors to fully operate with windows and latches to work. I also encourage ANYONE who wants to send me their photos and ideas of how to get the windows to work, so I can post a few different way of accomplishing this difficult task.

A real Lamborghini

photo by Tony

There is a lot of great information on Jason Jones's web site - (click on his logo to visit his web site)

Fletch

Click on the photo to see my door problems, I could have built a web page on "Doors"

Ron Tinari - 1/2/07

I had the car at Carlisle and some had a chance to see it and take pictures.

This is the steel framing inside my driver's door. The heavy wall 1" steel tube positioned outside the window is a side impact safety bar. I hope I never have to use it. It is positioned in as straight a line as possible from hinge to latch. This means it will bend, not twist, if impacted because the ends don't have a lever arm to the main connection with the frame.

I was also able to use the tube to attach my lock solenoid.

I am using original lamborghini lock button/release button and Lamborghini inside door handles. I want all of them to work just like the original and have devised linkage and cabling to have them all function. That is why there is all that linkage near the door latch.

For those who haven't skinned their doors yet, don't forget to paint all the steel and fiberglass inside the door. Water will get inside the door from washing or rain and can rust bare steel. Even though you won't see that, the rusty water will run through the drain hole in the lowest part of the door and run over your rocker panel paint leaving stains. The fiberglass should be painted too because that will also contaminate the water and leave stains. Just be sure to sand off the paint in the areas that will be bonded.

Steel frame will be fiberglassed to the inside of the panel. Frame will hold panel tight to door. Three 1/4"-20 bolts mount frame to door steel at front and are accessed through the speaker opening before speaker is installed. One more 1/4"-20 countersink head screw holds frame at rear light mount.

Lamborghini inside door handle uses one 1/4" countersink head bolt to mount. That threads into a weld nut welded to a 1/2" sq. tube. The two cable holes are threaded 5/16-18 and two bolts, with holes drilled through for the cable, hold bracket made from 1/8"x1" flat steel. Rollers are grooved plastic, cable adjusting bolts are 5/16" with hole for cable. 1/4" cross bar keeps cable on roller.

Rodney Hambright

Here are a few pics of the door being built.

Tim Watson 4/21/05

Doing the shaved door latches and cable solenoids

Here a shot of the D&R inner door shell

The steel frame is made with 1/2 inch square for the window bow and 3/4 square for the front track support for more stiffness up their. I used 1/4 by 2 inch welded to the hinge and tied into the main frame. Its very very strong, I broke my bench vice trying to tweak it abit.

Here's a great way to cut and clearance for your door gas strut. Use a rubber band on the ball ends to simulate the shock movement

Along the bottom of the door I had gaps. So I use sticks bondoed in as stops to alien the door panel, and at the sides bondo pad work perfect to get things right and was great for clamping spots.

Although my information comes from various builders and sources, if you want any information contact me. The photographs used on this site are used with permission, if you want to use any, contact them through the various links on this site. I did and you can see the results!