Window Frame - Lambo Lounge

Body - Door - Window Frame

A real Lamborghini These are the window frame of a 6.0 Diablo

Rubber Gasket Method:

Luis (Wild Rides) was nice enough to send me a few photos of using a rubber gasket.

This window molding is all one piece, is pressure fits up onto about a 1" strip and the window channel is mounted to the outer surface. So when you press on the strip it mounts the window channel as well.	Luis who has a CRP door, installed the rubber gasket that was supplied in his kit.	My CRP kit did not come with any window seals, talking with Luis he recommend that I try using the rubber gasket window seals from a 89 to 91 Ford T-bird.

Endre (Andy) Bujtas

The following part numbers for the Ford [Thunderbird] window tracks used by both IFG and NAERC for their coupes.

Qty	Part No.	List	Net
1	FOSZ6321456A	29.35	22.01
1	FOSZ6321457A	31.25	23.44
1	F5SZ6321596A	118.42	88.81
1	F5SZ6321597A	120.63	90.47
Total		299.65	224.73

Whether you get list or net price will probably depend on the dealership. (California prices and may vary from state to state).


To achieve the rubber gasket installation method the door must have a 1/2" lip around the inside of the glass area, this lip should be 1/8" thin and the end should be rounded. Use window urethane to glue in the rubber to the lip and spray a few coats of silicone on the rubber to help with the longevity of the gasket.

Window Channel Method:

One of the best descriptions of using a window channel can be seen on Dale Van Blokland (Dale's website - window section) check out his site to gain more information. Dale was kind enough to write me with a better description of his window building steps, and this will be the method I am going to use for my kit.

There is a detailed "manual" that Dale has created for you to view (in regards to this section). This instruction manual is on how he built his IFG Phantom Roadster. (click on his logo to visit his web site)

Click here to visit Dale's section on: Chapter 14 - Power Windows

Dale Van Blokland
This is a photo from Dales web site showing the IFG door frames that come with the IFG kit.	The window channel fits onto this window frame, and having a little more steel support in the door couldn't hurt.
I started by taking small sections of the window channel that I got from JC Whitney and putting it on the glass. I set the glass on the frame. I had bent a piece of flat bar to match the contour of the glass. I set this piece on top of the channel. I clamped it in place and slid the glass out. I then welded the top channel to the bottom channel using small pieces of flat bar. I cut a piece of lined channel the proper length and inserted it into the new fabricated channel. I inserted the glass back into the new channel and did the same exercise for the other end. There are two rules to remember, 1. Glass does not bend therefore make everything fit the glass. 2. Keep the frame as one piece until all pieces are securely fastened.


I took a piece of the original u channel and bent it to fit the bottom of the glass. I welded two tabs onto the metal channel to use for connecting to the window mechanism. I have since found out I put them in the wrong place but I will come up with something that will work. I secured the ends of the channel to the inside if the door welding a tab to a square tube and then glassing the tube to the inner door panel. Bottom pictures show the window without the innner door frame and the roof section of the channel has been removed. I have more bondo work to do. It is just roughed in at this point.

Finished the frame for the passenger side (before my accident). Turned out real good

Fletch

After attending the Knott's show 2003, I saw that NAERC had a better method then the way I was building my door frames...

This is the way I was going to build my own door frames (making them our of steel, click here to see more detail)

This is what you can buy from NAERC. Rubber molded alreay to go.

These are photos and comments from other builders about there installation methods.

Endre (Andy) Bujtas The window frames I got from IFG needed too much work to get them the way I wanted. So, I decided to make my own frames. The first step was to make the frame backbone. This will be used to keep the frame in shape. My tip for making/shaping the frame is to make a lot of cuts with the chop saw at the bend areas. It is best to make these cuts so that they are on the inside of the radius. To get a nice curve, these cuts should be equally spaced (I use 1 inch) and cut to the same depth (about 1/8 inch from the end to make it easy to bend). To keep the shape, tack the ends. Beware! Continuous welding will heat the frame up so much that when it cools, the frame may not have the shape you want. Take it slow.
The next step was to shape and weld the outer frame to the backbone. The frame is made of 1/8 x 3/4 flat stock and welded to the edge of the backbone. This results in a completed frame width of about 7/8 inches. Once the frame is welded together, I used my angle grinder/sander and sanded the welds flush with the surface using a 50 grit disk. Later I will sand/polish with 120 grit. Continue with the remaining sides and start making the window tracks - that will be welded to the frame.
This shows what the left window frame looks like from inside the door. The tracks I used are listed as solid-beaded in the JC Whitney catalog - model # 19NU3469T. To conform to the window shape, I had to make cuts every 1 inch, bend it to the glass curvature and spot weld the frame to the shape. I did this while the frame was on the glass. I used a sheet of aluminum to protect the glass while welding. Be careful using this process. The picture also shows the inner frame piece that is used to form the lower window frame (outside) and to hold the glass wiper/seal. The seal I will be using is the belt weatherstipping - model 81NU9747R from JC Whitney. This belt runs along the bottom of the glass and will keep the rain from getting inside the door.
This picture shows the window fully closed. The frame contains tabs that were drilled and tapped to 8-32. The frame is then attached to the door using small #8 Phillips screws. The door itself countersunk so that only the heads of the screws are visible. These will be painted black so that you won't easily see them.

Although my information comes from various builders and sources, if you want any information contact me. The photographs used on this site are used with permission, if you want to use any, contact them through the various links on this site. I did and you can see the results!