Conversion Chart - Fletch

Down load this calculator... I just came across this Units Conversion program that might come in handy for all your complex calculations.

My hints (to start with) would be - By Endre (Andy) Bujtas

Build Philosophy: Tortoise vs Hare
Plan small tasks to be performed every day. I do this using a Postit 4x6 sticky notepad. I write down (on each line) bulleted items to work on for the day. This helps in considering small details as well as the big jobs. If there is a big job to do that day, I'll break it down into smaller work units. In doing this, it makes me consider what I need to do to complete the job. I'll go through the job in my head - looking for areas to consider or the order in which the smaller tasks need to be done. Those who rush [and you can see the result] they may have their car sooner, but will probably not be satisfied with it for very long and will either sell it or forget it. They might never enjoy their labor.

Prototyping
For things that have to be fabricated or considered to be fabricated, I prototype. For example my air plenums. I made a model out of poster board first. I've prototyped my radiators by building several wood frames and fitting them around the rear wheel area. The result are the radiators you see (on my car) today. I'll also build small mock-ups or frames for things like the side markers. This way I get a good fit on my body. This also acts as a tool to use to fill around the side marker recess for a final look and fit.

Keep a Design Notebook
I have about a half dozen Steno Notepads in which I'll design or sketch-out how I want a system to function or an object to look like. These design items are not necessarily to be made at this moment, but in some future date. I'll periodically think about when and how I'll make something and review the design in the notebook. I may change the design and now I have a record of the evolution of some object I made. The design notebook also contains vital information and measurements needed to make "things". For example, I'm starting to work on my rear wing flap. I plan on making it functional - move up and down electrically. My notebook contains a drawing and the measurements of the flap (as it currently is) and of the wing recess. I make notes on what I must do to make this all work. The notebook also documents the calculations I make and part numbers of things I plan to order. For example, when I laid-out my remote oil filters, I sketched all the lines and fittings along with with their Earls or Aeroquip part numbers so I know what I need to order. It also keeps a record of such parts so that, if I needed to replace a component, I can go back to the notebook and reorder it.

Things to think about before you start your project - by Brian Weir

Unless you have tons of experience with welding, fabricating, and bodywork etc. I would strongly suggest that you have the manufacturer do as much of the prep work as possible, including and especially the chassis welding.

This is probably the most crucial part of the whole process, since how well or how poorly the welding is done will mean the difference between a car that handles flawlessly, and one that is ruined and be practically unusable due to errors and mistakes made in the welding process. If nothing else, have the factory do as much chassis and body work for you.

If you want to keep the costs down, keep your transverse V-8 layout. If cost is not as important a factor as authenticity, go with the longitudinal layout by ordering the mid-engine cage. Don't forget to order the bump-steer kit which modifies the Fiero's toe-in/toe-out geometry, or the car will be dangerously squirrelly under acceleration.

Be prepared to pay dearly for Porsche transaxles. If you pay $2500 for one, consider yourself extremely fortunate. The ballpark figure is closer to between $3500 and $5000 and up for later models. Talk to Andy in the forum.
He is a much more knowledgeable source for the technical details of the build up.

One more tip: Buy the genuine Lamborghini lights. The replica units that come with the kits typically don't have an UV coating on the lenses and are guaranteed to turn yellow in less than six months. The look is not pretty. Be prepared to pay a few hundred bucks per pair for the real McCoys. The wheels are going to run you at least $2000.

Saving Money - By Endre (Andy) Bujtas

Since we all would like to cut costs here and there, here is some advice on how to reduce the price of items that has worked for me.

1. If you wish to purchase an item that has several options that could be added, such as a Porsche transaxle, ask the builder to quote you a 'package price'. This way you can save some money, otherwise they will add the object prices together and you be charged more.

2. If the company allows payment by credit card, make a deal whereby you will pay them in cash or cashiers check, but ask them to remove about 3% off the cost. This way, you save 3% and the builder makes about 3% on the deal since credit card companies charge about 6% for the use.

Steel Supplier - By Rick Page

I don't know who you use for steel, but I've been using Metal Supermarkets for my build steel. They are a national franchise operation so you might have one by you and they will deliver. Their prices are 1/2 to 1/3 the price at Home Depot or Lowes as well.

Fabricating Tips - By Endre (Andy) Bujtas

Here are a couple of fabrication tips and ideas.

Studs:

If you plan on making brackets that will have studs, the easiest and fastest way to make good studs is:

1. Use a flathead bolt as the stud
2. Drill hole in the plate or bracket.
3. Countersink the hole
4. Place the flathead bolt and secure with nut and washer. This will hold the bolt firmly in place and perpendicular.
5. Weld in bolt at the flathead end.
6. Grind and sand weld flush with bracket.

Perfect studs every time.

Slots:

If you need to make slotted holes, you can do this using only your drill press. However, you may need a 2-axis machinist's cross vice. JC Whitney sells them for $35-60, depending on the range of travel. You should be using a decent drill press with at least, a 1/2 inch chuck.

1. Drill 2 holes that represent the 2 ends of the slot.
2. Mount a high-speed cutter from Dremel.
3. Support your work in the vice with a block of wood.
4. Crank your drill press table so that the cutter enters 1 of the holes and will completely cut through the work.
5. Use Tap Magic cutting oil and slowly cut through the work to the other hole.

Dremel makes 2 sizes of these cutters and I've cut slots into 1/8 and 3/16 inch stock with no difficulties. However, to avoid breaking the cutter, insert the cutter all the way into the chuck - with only a slight gap. The cutter shank is only about 1/8 inch in diameter.

Working with Kit Car Manufactures - by Fletch (a little editorial, something to think about)

A little editorial, something to think about…

Oh sure there are a lot of nice reputable car builders out there but... the big problem of the whole kit car industry is that it is circled around the idea of making a copy of something that isn’t ours... which makes us all thieves.

Let face it, we are all part of the rip-off plan by supporting the manufactures to build kits. As with drugs, we may not be the guy’s growing and selling the drugs… we are the guys buying and using the supplies - which of these three evils is worse.

There is still a part of this whole kit car business that is not right… don’t get me wrong. I consider myself to be a very honest guy, but I guess even my morels are not quite pure. I want my copy of the car to be exact and correct which means stealing a manufactures design – for my personal pleasure, but not at the expense of ripping people off. I guess that is where my moral lie, take the manufactures ideas.

We are all looking for the best "copy" of a real car… and we have to except that we are working with guys that are “rip-off artiest”, some of them are nice and honest thieves. Honest or not they are all coping someone else's hard engineering work for there own profits... and I am just as bad, I am the guy buying it (and I also have a web site to show you where and how build and buy it)! How messed up is that?

I would relate it to coping music CD’s, sure I have copied music CD’s (isn’t that why they sold me my computer – to boot leg and make my own CD’s). However, this is where I feel it is wrong, if after I made a copy of a Music CD… I then went down to the flea market and started selling the CD (as new or used). Again, it falls into the category of Fletch’s morels “don’t steal at the cost of ripping off people”… does that make sense?

As a mechanical engineer, I know what it takes to create a binder full of drawing, and that is what Ken has done. Reverse engineering takes time, and that is that I am willing to pay Ken for and that is what he is selling. Ken is not taking the manufactures drawings and putting his name on them, he has spent the money and time to create something that no one else has.

It all still revolves around copying and stealing… but at whose cost?

I am very new to this entire replica thing, but from what I have been reading, are there any reputable manufacturers out there who deliver what they promise?

It's kinda like this . You see this great looking girl so you go out with her. So you find out that she is alot better looking person than she is to be around and she treats you like s***. You still go out with her becase she looks so good .In return she makes you look even better to be seen with her,so you put up with her.It's the same with the cars they look so good, you can't aford the real thing. So you put up with the s*** to get the car in the end it's the same thing as the girl thing. Kenny - http://www.kitcentral.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/001391.html