Chassis - Stretching a Fiero Frame
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These are the stretching methods by Jo Connor McKenna

 

Chasis stretch a-la Exclusive Motor Sports. I was very lucky to have had the oppertunity to help Paul stretch a Fiero before I did my own car. These are the photos of that stretch. I stretched my own car using the bottom stretch plates as seen in the attached photos, but the upper portion of the car was stretched and stregthened in the D&R fashion of a tubular sub-frame, much the same as Robert Proulx's current Roadster chassis. In fact, Robert has helped me TREMENDOUSLY with measurements that are crucial to my own build! I'll try to make the description of the stretch brief and straight forward...

The Fiero was first cut at it's upper frame section about 4 inches back from the firewall. The bottom portion of the frame was cut roughly 6 inches from the firewall, just after the section where the frame tapers inward.

After the car was cut in two, four 13" 1/2"X1/8" flat stock pieces were then MIG welded at points marking EXACTLY 11" inches to make sure the car was the required stretch length both top and bottom. Cross measurements were then taken to make 100% certain that the back half of the car was square. Paul then welded in the top portion of the stretch pieces which are pieces of 1/8" sheet steel bent and formed using a metal break to form the new top section.

 

I should mention at this point that it is very important to spread out your welding evenly from one side of the car to the other, as welding in one side completely before welding the other side WILL distort the car! A little at a time, and cross measure often!
The bottom section of the stretch is made up of four plates, two inners and two outers. The inner plates are welded in first, as well as the 2"X3"X1/8" cradle relocation bar. First the inner stretch plates are bent to the contours of the frame welds and then tacked into place. Then the cradle bar is tack welded to the inner plates. JUST tack weld the cradle bar at this time! The egine cradle can be used to hold the bar in place as most people do not have a jig such as Paul uses in these photos.
To complete the bottom stretch, the outer stretch plates are then welded in. They two are bent to the contour of the frame and then welded in place. Again, I can't stress enough how important it is to spread out your welding! Once all pieces are tack welded in place and all cross measurements are taken to ensure the car is square, it is time to complete all welds. The cradle bar is welded in last. Voila!... one stretched Fiero.
The whole stretch took Paul a little less than four hours to complete, and that was including the time it took to take all photos and explain in detail in between each step!

I made my own stretch jig out of 2"X4" lumber and 3 inch casters.

It took me less than an hour to cut all of the lumber and assemble the jig! It's tough as nails, and holds the car dead straight while stretching is in progress. Afterwards it also makes a great stand!
The bottom stretch plates are the plates Paul uses, and the rest of the car was done using Robert's measurement and diagrams.
Prepeed areas to be welded with wire wheels until every last spot of dirt and paint was gone!
Weld 1/2"X1/8" spacers to be sure car is EXACTLY 11" longer. These spacers will be removed later when the stretch plates are welded in place.

Spacers welded in place, now is the time to take last cross-measurements before the botton inner plates are welded in.
New cradle bar is then located using the actual cradle from the Fiero. Once jacked up into position, it to is tack welded into place. It is important to space out your welds. Too much on one side and not enough on the other side WILL distort the body somewhat! Cross-measure often!

 

The inner stretch plates are first tacked into place.

 
The outer stretch plates tack welded into place. All finish welding was done at a later date and in the sunshine! ;) Since these last set of pictures, I have welded in the new rear firewall section, welded the side framing to the chasis and tied it in with the rear of the car, and angled off the rear firewall as the D&R method.
D&R builders will recognize this bar. After the inner bottom portion stretch pieces and cradle bar have been tack welded into postion, this upper framing is welded to ensure 100% stiffness and stregth to the upper portion of the stretch.

 

Here is another look at the upper stretch framing, cradle bar, and inner bottom stretch plates all tack welded into place. The outer bottom stretch plates are welded next.

 
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Although my information comes from various builders and sources, if you want any information contact me. The photographs used on this site are used with permission, if you want to use any, contact them through the various links on this site. I did and you can see the results!