This section has grown to be a very large section so I have broken it down to "builders" view photos and comments from other builders about there Stretching Methods... click on there name to see what they have done.

Here is a chart that I have created to help compare the Fiero to the Diablo

3,474 lbs. (1576 kg)

There is a detailed "manual" that Dale has created for you to view (in regards to this section). This instruction manual is on how he built his IFG Phantom Roadster. (click on his logo to visit his web site)

Click here to visit Dale's section on: Chapter 4 - Body Preparation

- Removed the engine cradle
- Removed everything from the engine bay
- Propped chassis on jackstands and leveled the chassis with shims. 8 jackstands in total, four supporting the front chassis, four supporting the rear section being cut away.
- Removed all four wheels
- Measured 5" back from the firewall
- Cut straight down
- Pulled the separated rear section back exactly 11", measured at top and bottom.

Simply make your cuts square. Some people scribe a line using a marker or tape. I simply cut each part of the frame straight down and square. There are two main beams on each side and some sheet. Don't get caught-up in getting the top beam cut and the lower frame cut in a perfect line with each other. Just make sure each member is cut well and in around the same distance from the firewall.

The place where you need to be meticulous is in the stretch pieces you use. As long as those pieces are exactly 11" long and square, and your cuts on the chassis are square (I know I keep saying this), you cannot screw-up. Err on the safe side, cut a little larger than 11" and grind it to fit the empty space. You can use string and stretch it diagonally across the engine compartment to check alignment. But again, if your chassis is level before the cut and your stretch pieces are good, you should be fine there.

The stretch seems daunting to a lot of people, but it isn't that hard. It's the psychology of chopping a car in half I think.

As for the engine cradle, you need to be a little more creative with that. You need to angle the ends of your stretch material to keep the cradle from dipping downwards. Look at the cradle when it is mounted without an engine if you can so you can get an idea of the lowpoint. I cut the pivot points of the cradle at the elbow and welded the steel in there.

Oh, and watch out for the fuel filler hose.

to have the "final" set of wheels and tires on the car during the stretch?

I guess the same question applies to the suspension. Does it matter if the suspension is upgraded before or after the stretch?

I just thought of another related question. What about the weight of the engine and tranny. Is it ok to have the engine and tranny removed while performing the stretch or should they remain. I obviously can't put in the "real" motor/tranny until after the stretch, since they are planned as an longitudinal v8.

Are there any other issues that I need to consider before or when performing the stretch. I am actually planning on having the stretch performed by a professional as opposed to doing that part myself.

Thanks,
Chris Thomas
85 SE 2m6 (4spd manual)

Duncan
Administrator posted 10 May 2001 11:34 PM
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It is not necessary at all to have the final wheels for the stretch. Most people use their stock Fiero wheels/suspension. The important thing is to make sure the surface is level and that you can easily move the rear section back.
You don't even need wheels/suspension on if you have jackstands, some wood, some castors, and 8 floorjacks. When we stretched mine, we lifted the front section on floorjacks, and jacked the rear section on a make-shift dolly (the front jacks were much higher than the ones on the dolly obviously). The car was level, and when we made the cuts nothing shifted or sank. We then rolled back the dolly to fit the pieces, checked the alignment, and welded it back up.

Some people have left the engine in for a stretch. If you're keeping the V6 then it's less hassle, and if you're using the stock tires/suspension to keep the car rolling, you might want to leave it in. Just disconnect anything that is in the path of the cuts and drain all your fluids. Brace the undercarriage before the cuts so when you chop it, you can actually roll the pieces apart.

VictorTomanov
New Member posted 08 May 2002 09:03 PM
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The Fiero frame is strong enough for a stretch even for the Roadster. It's done part time in about 2 - 3 weeks. The hardest part is ripping all the bodypanels off and cutting the stamp steel. Once a Fiero is clean (no body work or glass) You have to cut the front bumper steel and frame, rear trunk and bumper off. You then mark the 6 rear tube members and cut them straight. Pull engine back and weld new tube steel in place. There're many more things you have to cut but none are critical. Only the alignment is important and is done with two pieces of string, (or measuring tape). Very easy, take five minutes. Then you weld it all back together again. Either way If you building the kit yourself and want to save money the only thing you will loose is time. I found this one of the easier steps in building the car (damn bodywork!!) so have fun.

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Victor Tomanov
www.Lambo.ca

Gary

Aviator
Member posted 17 August 2002 10:24 PM
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This topic has been one of many discussions, but Horse, I know you are about to 'chop-away'..... Finished mine, but I thought of a few things you may not know as a novice welder....Watch your settings on your welder! The Fiero frame is about as thin as a beer can, and if your temp is too hot, you'll simply blow holes through the existing Fiero frame, while trying to weld in the extension pieces. Also, like I mentioned in a previous post reply, measure ten-times, weld once. You will hear the metal popping after your welds.... Just be sure to tack on one side, move to the other, measure again, tack the other side, grab a cold one, wait on things to cool down, move back and forth, finish the cold one, etc. Everything must be 'level with the world', square, etc.... I HIGHLY suggest using an 'X' measurement also. Find a common point on the firewall (behind the seats) and measure to a given point, such as the edge of the hole where the strut comes through. Be CERTAIN it is an identical measurement from side to side, on both sides. Other wise, you will be cruising down the road looking like a semi hit you in the side (i.e. Seriously dog-legging), one way or the other.

Finally, be sure to use a grinder or sander, to rough up the surfaces BEFORE you start to weld. It makes for a MUCH stronger weld, and much easier too. It is a pitiful weld typically, if you count on the welder to burn through the paint and adhere. Many-many times stronger if you do the proper prep work before diving in to the welding and measuring part! Hope this helps???
Aviator