Fletch

Before and After - These are some of my favorite photos. The before and after remind me of the commercials that show a weight loss of 100lbs... and you look at the ad and say "no way, is that the same person..." It is hard to believe that this is the same car.

One of the challenges of using a Fiero chassis is that the front end needs to be stretched out a total of 4 inches (2” on each side). To accomplish this I used a kit from RCC (but there are different kits from a few different companies).

I bought the RCC tubular front control arms with the two inch extensions and this also converts it to tubular control arms and coil over adjustable Carrera shocks. I also purchased the suspension and brakes (11" GM) from.

These are photos of the brake parts that I received.

I don't know how you can accomplish the actual install task, while you are holding up this part (which in time will start feeling like a 50 lbs brick) you would need to add washers (spacers for alignment) and there just isn't enough room to get your fingers around the bolt (the hub is in the way) while holding up this brick with your other hand and trying to add washers - there just isn't enough time in the day to install this.

My recommendation is (which takes a little long - but is not so frustrating) do your calculations on how many washer you think you will need (as the instruction tell you) then dissemble the bracket from the caliper, remove the hub and now you can install bracket onto the spindle with nothing in your way, this is also the only way that you can get the correct torch. Install the hub, then attach the caliper to the new bracket, and your done.

These are some questions from Wilson Klassen inquiring about by front end - 3/7/2002

What do you think about his (RCC) products are they good quality? I really have nothing to compare it with... I can tell you the paint quality was very good, the welds on the support looked great, the piece went together with NO problems, all the part were there... I found Darrel to be very helpful with any question. If I were to build another Fiero chassis car I would use RCC!

Using the coil overs, did you have instructions as to removing the old bumper/travel limiter or did you have to fend for yourself? RCC did provide writen sheets of instructions (with photos), that tell you how to dissemble and install (with torque spec.).

Did you ever consider using an air bag/shock to have the ability to raise the front end for curbs or speed bumps? I do have a section on the Lounge that has Air Lift system, compressors and other components.

Did you stay with the standard front spindles or did you get a drop spindle? I did use the Fiero spindles that I mounted to the RCC control arms (which were the 2" extended offset models).

This is a list of the parts that I ordered for the Front:

Front, Coilover, 8x300, Carrera Shock & AVO 8cs300 Spring
Front, Upper Control Arm, Tubular
Front, Upper Control, Extended 2" (2 req. @$15 ea.)
Front, Lower Adjustable Control Arm, Tubular
Front, Lower Control, Extended 2" (2 req. @$15 ea.)
Front, 11" GM Break Package

This is a list of the parts that I ordered for the Rear:

Rear, Coilover Struts
Rear, Lower Control Arm, Tubular
Bump Steer Kit
Rear, 11" GM Break Package

Rear Brakes

For the rear suspension, I just talked to Darrel (RCC) about spring size, he said with a 350 engine with 500+ HP I should use a 350 lbs spring with a height of 8 inches. Two inches shorter then the stock height.

Steering Stabilizer

I ordered a new Steering Stabilizer (58026) from The Fiero Store, but if you want to save some money you can buy this part at your local auto parts shop, ask for a Monroe shock part number SC2943 or check out the latest price on CarParts last time I checked it was 24.95.

Rick Page

I put the RCC front end on my cross member.

You'll notice I've replaced all the hex bolts with hex socket bolts. They are all torqued correctly according the manual. It does seem silly that, for instance, the bolts on the steering rack get 21 ft/lbs, not 20 or 25. Does that mean at 20 it'll fall off? I've used blue lock tight on everything just in case.

Craig Nadeau

This is the suspension, I have some work yet to do on the lower A Arm but all in all it fits nicely. The Alden Eagle shocks are beautiful.

Jo McKenna

These are the stock Fiero rotors. They will have to be turned down into hubs to accept the new 10.25" rotors.

Spindles

I am using the stock Fiero spindles for my build. Paul assures me that once the body is on the chassis, with the widetrack control arms I am using, and the Exclusive Motor Sports body, it may be necessary to raise the car an inch afterward!

Spindles

Painted. I used a high heat caliper paint for the front suspension parts. I also baked everything that would fit in the oven at 450 degrees. The end result looks and feels like powdercoating!

Caliper mounting hardware

Here it is... the front caliper mounting hardware and spacers. These pieces were cut using a plasma pattern cutter, and then I cleaned them up by hand. I blued them with hot gun blueing solution to better protect them from the elements. The spacers were machines for me also allowing perfect outboard brake pad clearance from the rotor. They are also blued. I cannot understand for the life of me, why other companies charge a small fortune for these plates! Without a doubt, they are extremely important pieces that you must trust your life with! But an apple is an apple, and once these pieces have been designed properly, the cost of machining the plates and bushings still does not add up to what other companies want for the mounting hardware alone. E-mail me for pricing if you are interested.

Hardware mounted

Here's a look at the way the mounting hardware is fastened.

Calipers

It's kind of fuzzy in this photo, but you can see the clearance between the new rotor and the outboard brake pad... This is the reason I have the spacers machined for me. The clearance is perfect every time.

Craig Nadeau

This is a beautiful set of shocks. This is the front set, the back set are a bit longer and much heavier.

These are Alden Eagles, Surprisingly, they end up about the same cost as QA1 and Strange but the machine work is excellent. They are all billet aluminum with a threaded body and adjustable.

I can send the springs back for a no cost exchange if they are the wrong rate. I have 350# for the front and 650# in the back (so far).

Front Suspension

This is starting to come together. Good rod ends are too expensive, they must see me coming. The sway bar is 1.25 solid. There are a few Fieros running this here in Calgary - incredibly solid ride on corners.

Front Hub

This is the front Hub. It came out okay. I retained the collar and ribs on the back (you can't really se that) as I felt the hub would be a lot stronger it it was still there. I have to have some spacers made so that the discs will fit.

Endre (Andy) Bujtas

This is what my front end looks like today. I plan on making the front of the car a full useable trunk.

Unbeknownst to me was the fact that the tub chassis does not allow the direct bolting of the windshield wiper motor bracket. I marked-off the location for the standard installation and cut the bracket off at the proper location - accounting for the chassis pipe diameter. I fabricated a mounting plate and welded it to the underside of the pipe. This will be shown on another picture.

Front Upper Control Arm

The front upper control arms as received requires a collar to prevent this from happening. As I move the control arm up and down, the bushing works itself out of the tubing. I did receive collars from IFG, but I will have to wait until the control arms are repaired. They, too, need some work as with the rear control arms.

View of Front Shock Mount Bushing

Its a tight fit between the shock mount and the shock bushings. The bushing is squeezed into place. This results in damage to the bushing which causes binding in the shock action. I am replacing the Carrera 2254 gas shocks that came with the chassis with Carrera 3254 hydraulic shocks with spherical ends. This will make installation and removal of the shock much easier. However, this requires some modification to the shock mounts.

Front Upper Control Arm

At first I thought I only had problems with my rear control arms. But so as to not feel slighted in any way, my front control arms also need repair work as well. On one of the arms, the bushing tube was egg-shaped. It was easy to see how this could be done since the tubing is rather skimpy. These will be cut and replaced (on ALL control arms) with thicker 0.125" wall tubing. A couple of the front control arms had galled ball joint threads. That's what happens when you don't use a dry lubricant like neolube (graphite in alcohol). I'm replacing the ball joints and will lube the threads upon assembly.

Kevin Lyons

Shelby Customs Suspension

Everything has to align absolutely perfect or it's all a waste of time and money.

Working on front suspension

I purchased my front suspension from Held Motor Sports.

Mike Budgery
I've been getting my machinery up and i have not had time to do much work but i'm getting back into it. Here is a shot of my front cradle and my lower a-arms attached during build and welding stage.

RCC - Specialty Products