Rick Page

I got my custom goodies from Jeff Fields at Transaxle Engineering. Jeff is a really nice guy. My half shafts were delayed quite a bit when he was jacked around by the original people that were to fabricate them. He found a new vendor and they arrived on time for the new vendors timeline.

I swapped my 915 hubs shown on the left in this picture for 930 hubs.

It allows me to use 930CV joints which according to Andy are a little stronger. You have to have 43 tooth splines to make the swap, earlier 915 transaxles had different splines.

I got some lube from Jeff at Transaxle and this is a pic of forcing the grease into the Porsche joint.

There is tape over the bolt holes to keep grease out and let me put the bolts through and use red loctite without greasing the bolts.

It is a good thing dad was here to take the picture.

I got the half shafts on... this angle it looks bad, but the car is off the ground and the half shaft still has a couple inches clearance off the cradle.

Tim Watson

Heres some PICS of my progress. Got the main frame done and engine and trans in, Axles in and add gas and drive!!

I've got 500 man hours invested so far, I started in Dec of 02. At this pace and anyone guess how many more hours and the date of completion?

The axles are stock Audi 5000S inner CV' s and shock Fiero outers, mated by cutting and turning the solid Fiero shaft to press up in the hollow Audi axle about 3 inches and weld.

Also check you ride height! From the bottom to the cradle to the center of the axle plain came out to about 5 inches. This is maybe a little low. After I mount the body and wheels again I will check for axle angle and my shim to 5 1/2

this is a shot of the brace from inner frame rail to the lower stretch frame area. Some us a V shaped braces, this was simple and quick, and strong

You goto love that look, So indy Car! I think painting the Trans and Adapter gives it a factory look , with a natural flow from engine to trans.

I use an acid prep wash and alodine treatment then spayed with zinc chomate primer. Zinc is a must when painting aluminum, paint won't stick without it. Epoxy etcthing primer works to.

Craig Nadeau

2/23/04 - Here are the axles that I have been working on. I don’t think that I have any ambitions to try to market them but any drive line shop should be able to duplicate these. There is 3” of movement so it should be perfect for adjusting. They are of course very strong. I think I am in to them for about $1800 CDN plus I supplied the Porsche flange.

This is the most excited I have been for any single part. The machine shop that I am working with is going to take the Fiero outboard CV joints and convert them into a U Joint. They will also have a U Joint on the inboard side mating to the Porsche axle flange. Between the U Joints will be a splicer axle shaft with a slip joint in the middle. The set up will be massively strong. The weak point will be the spline on the Fiero CV. There will be 1.5" of slip so the wheels can move up and down alot and also out if needed. And, it might not be that expensive, I'll keep you posted. The shop will produce as many as we need and can use whatever outboard CV we are using.

This is just an FYI, axles get broken by torque (twisting power). If an engine makes only 200ftlbs at the crank, that is multiplied through the tranny and diff. Horsepower cannot be multiplied. In my Porsche tranny in first gear I would have 2200ftlb going to the axles so roughly 10X the crank torque. That is pretty remarkable when you think about 2200 lbs on a 1 foot lever. A human can create the same amount of torque by standing on a 10ft lever. Alot of people test chassis stiffness with a 10ft long (or longer) piece of tubing and putting all their weight on it. (in reality the differential splits that equaly into each axle) Many stock heavy duty pickups can create 10,000ftlbs at the axle