Bump Steer - Lambo Lounge

Chassis - Rear End - Brakes

Fletch

These are the rear 11" GM brakes that I received from RCC

I intalled the new roter bearing hubs.

Ron Boudreau

To reduce unsprung weight and reduce braking torsion on the rear uprights I have built and inboard brake system for the Audi trans. I have designed the mounting hubs for Wilwood disks and mounting for calipers. I'll send more pictures when I bolt up the calipers.

Rick Page
I began to work on the brakes from RCC.	The outboard pad was real loose so I had to remove it and do 'fine calibration' on the tabs to make it fit a little more snug.
Each casting is a little different. I had to grind a small portion of the left caliper to be able to install it on the mounts, but it went in fine after this tweak.

The rears are a little different, you have to saw off some interfering pieces on the upright. This is a before and after picture.

Then you have to drill and tap the mounting holes. RCC provides the tap but you have to bring your own 27/64th drill to the party. (needs a 1/2" chuck too).

Then it basically mounts up like the front brakes. The calipers do not come painted. Be sure to use a high temperature paint (500 degree will probably do) to keep the cast from rusting and showing through wheels badly.

Steve Nickolai

I'm building a I.F.G. 6.0 and live in So. Calif. I found an inexpensive way to upgrade the rear brakes on a stock Fiero chassis. Without doing the S-10 mod. It is so easy and cheep!

1) Go to the wrecking yard a get the front steering knuckles and bearing hub asy., rotor, caliper, outer tie rod end, and outer stub axle ......off of a "1994 Buick Century" .........I spent less than $100.00 for all!!!!
2) Remove the old knuckle, outer tie rod end, axle shaft and old brakes off of the Fiero
3) Install the front steering knuckle off of the Buick ..... (Same ball joint diameter and shock mount as Fiero)
3a) Clip the anti-lock feed wires off of the Buick bearing
4) Remove the outer c.v. boot clamp (carefully) and lock clip and swap the outer stub axles (from Fiero to Buick) same spline and diameters...
If you were careful...re-install the boot and clamp
5) Install the Buick tie rod end on the strut arm........same thread size as Fiero...Re-set toe
6) Re- built Caliper and a turned rotor
7) You have big brakes..easy as that!!!!!!

Time to convert 2-3 hours...........The best part is that it is all bolt on with no modifications, and you end up with "large vented brakes" and a "large wheel bearing" like the S-10 (without any MACHINE WORK to the hub) and a hub flange that can be drilled to any stud size!
Way to easy!!!!!!!! And the only cost is from the outside is machining the rotor, and pads and stud drilling and/or spacer.

The only draw back, their is not an emergency brake in the stock caliper!!! But a easy fix!

Although my information comes from various builders and sources, if you want any information contact me. The photographs used on this site are used with permission, if you want to use any, contact them through the various links on this site. I did and you can see the results!