Photo by HanH

95 VT - passenger

95 VT - driver

Fletch

This is a photo of the fiberglass seat that came with my CRP kit.

I don't plan on using these seats for my car, I am looking into using Recaro seats.

I want comfort, and I like the added features of having the seat warmers and side air bags all built into a seat that Recaro has been building for over 30 years... I am sure in that time they have learned a few ergonomic tricks that will add to my comfort (and safety).

Endre (Andy) Bujtas - My Seat Mounting Solution

Every builder has their own method of mounting the seats. I wanted a bit of height adjustment so I fabricated a plates that utilize the studs already in the seats as supplied by IFG.

The plates are made of 1/8 x 1.25 flat stock with holes drilled for the seat studs. The plates for the back studs have nuts welded to accept 1/2 inch rod ends, which were cut down. The forward end has 2 - 3/16" brackets for the threaded clevises, which provided the height adjustment. However, the height adjustment is for fine tuning and can not change 'on the fly'. The clevises are basically bolts that are affixed to the seat rail, which was modified for this method of mounting. In addition, the plates are affixed to the seats using stainless steel washers and acorn nuts.

Seat Mounted On Rail

This is a picture of the seat mounted to the modified Fiero seat rail. Also shown is the R.JS Racing Harness that I will use. It is a 5-way harness with a cam lock release. The upper belts are of a Y-type design. I drilled a hole into the firewall and welded a 1/2-inch nut onto the 2 inch angle bracket to support the upper belts. This was done prior to the final painting of the tube frame.

Jed Copham - Lowered floor

I'm 6'2" 220 lbs. Should be 200 lbs but that's another topic. I would have fit with the seat on the floor with no adjustments but Kristi couldn't touch the pedals. So it took a couple of days to lower the floor for the rails to fit and get the seat to floor height. Now, you still can go lower by lowering the floor with no rails and you could be 6'6".

Here is a picture of my lowered floor. I achieved around 3" of extra headroom with the seat adjustment. I cut around the back and sides and matched the height to the passenger side with the seat fixed to the floor. With the angle the seat actually goes up as it goes forward! I still need to paint and undercoat it.

I relocated the frame forward, cut around the sides and back, and braced and patched with sheet metal. The main bracing was done where the original seat brace was. I then used bondo undercoating on both sides when done.

It seemed to work well but is a bit scary taking a saw to the pan!!

There is a detailed "manual" that Dale has created for you to view (in regards to this section). This instruction manual is on how he built his IFG Phantom Roadster. (click on his logo to visit his web site)

Click here to visit Dale's section on: Chapter 22 - Seats

Dale Van Blokland - Rev #3

I revised the seat frames for the third time to get the seats lower. I started with the angle iron bolted to the existing seat rails.

Dale Van Blokland - Rev #2 The reason I posted these photo are again to show that it took Dale three times to make it work and we can all learn a lot from the time Dale spent on these other experiments.

Jason Jones - (visit Jason's web site on Interior)

Most Diablo builders opt to mount the seats permanently with no adjustment due to high clearance. I am 5'11" and I wanted to be able to adjust the seat and so my wife could drive it too. I began to see what I could come up with. I tack welded everything until I was satisfied It would work and my wife agreed. I first started by finding the "center" of gravity of the seats and determined where they could pivot the least but with the most adjustment. I then marked that on each side of the seat.

I cut a 1/8th piece of steel about 15" long and 3in wide I cut slots on both ends and welded a bolt in each slot.

I then made L brackets and tack welded them in to position to accept the bolts.

This is the 1st stage. The bolts act as a pivot and do not interfere with the function of the seat rails from the original Fiero.

After the seat was in place I checked for clearance and the height was not too bad. My wife and I could both sit without hitting our heads.

I then had to devise a way for it to adjust and stay in a locked position.

I turned to the original Fiero seats and removed the seat adjustment bracket and assembly. I cut off the upper long piece and came up with this.

You can see that the adjustment will allow for the seat to be tiled forward or back and locking it into position.

(Passenger Side) View

I installed 1/4" round steel on the back side of each seat and then glassed it in. The seats are now very rigid and stiff. I was worried about flex but it does not seem to be a problem.

The yellow shows where the steel was glassed in. It was done from the back so it is not seen. It should be a great improvement in feel and rigidity.

Andy Bujtas

At the 2003 Knotts show I got a good look at the NAERC chassis. It is a very nice piece of work. However, in examining the NAERC chassis I noticed that something was missing: the seat mounting bolts. Therefore, I'm submitting a suggested method of installing them to the NAERC chassis. The method can be applied to a completed chassis as well as one that will be fabricated by the builder. The suggested method begins at the stage the chassis was presented at the show - that is, complete with the floor plan already installed. It is also based upon using the Fiero seat rail as a starting point, but can also be adopted to any seat rail. This also assumes that the seat mounts have already been completed.

1. Place the seat rail with the seat mounted in the completed chassis. Make sure the seat is all the way in the back position on the rail.

2. Position the seat + rail such that there is about 3 inches clearance from the rear firewall at the maximum [desired not necessarily allowed] tilt of the seat back. Include the center console and rocker panel so that there will not be any interference between them and the seat. Center the seat between the console and rocker panel.

3. Mark the position of the rail mounting holes on the floor pan.

4. Punch a center mark at these locations and measure the side-side distance between the punch marks. Record the measurements.

5. Drill the holes (at the punch marks) to the bolt diameter that will be used. The bolt diameter should be slightly smaller than the rail mounting hole to allow minor seat alignment. The bolts used should be Grade 8 or higher. The kind of bolt used will be described later.

6. At this point the chassis may have to be placed on its side in order to properly work on the bottom of the chassis.

7. Get some 1/8 x 1.25 inch CHANNEL (C channel) stock. It has a shape like this [ . This is quite rigid and will provide a strong mounting point. You don't want to use flat stock because it will easily deflect under an accelerated load (a panic stop). And you don't want to use square (or rectangular) stock since it is too big.

8. Cut the channel to the length equal to the width of the chassis between the tubes at the location of the seat bolt holes at the underside of the chassis. The channel will be welded to the chassis at the bottom of the chassis and not the inside. That is why the chassis was turned on its side.

9. Scribe a center line (dividing the channel width in half) along the length of the cut channel on the flat side of the channel.

10. The flat side of the channel will face the floor pan. Mark the bolt holes (drilled in the floor pan earlier) on the channel with the center line (marked earlier) going through the center of the floor pan holes. Check the centers with the measurements recorded earlier for verification.

11. Punch the hole centers into the channel and drill to the bolt diameter.

12. Turn the channel with the flat side down and insert a Grade 8 socket head bolt into the hole between the 2 flanges like so: [==D. Add a nut to hold the bolt firmly and perpendicularly in place. A socket head is used since it is made of high strength alloy steel and has a thick head to it.

13. Weld the bolt head to the channel. Don't weld the thread side. This side must lie flat onto the floor pan.

14. When cooled, the unit should easily be inserted into their respective floor pan locations from the bottom. You might want to dap some adhesive/sealer around the base of the threaded area of the channel to weather seal the hole area before welding the channel unit to the chassis.

15. Weld the unit to the chassis at the ends. The end of the channel unit should fit snug with the chassis tubing. If the chassis was painted, clean all the paint along the entire length of the channel.

16. Stitch weld (alternating 1/2 inch long welds about 3 inches apart on either side of the channel) the floor pan to the channel. That means that a 1/2 inch long weld on one side and another 1/2 inch long weld 3 inches away on the other side. Then the next 1/2 inch weld on the first side will be about 6 inches from the first, etc. Use low heat so as not to burn a hole through the floor pan. Stitch welding to the channel is really not for strength as much as to prevent the floor pan from "slapping" against the channel and making noise.

17. Prime and paint the welded areas.

Just something to consider.

Andy

Nathan

In order to get the seats as low as possible I wanted to fit the seats without runners as they would have added at least another 1" to the overall height. The seats come with captive nuts, as does the chassis but I couldn't use the chassis ones as they were spaced for genuine Lambo runners. Fortunately the chassis rails are just about the right distance apart for the bolt centres on the seats, so all I had to do was drill right through the chassis rails with an 8.5mm drill and use 8mm bolts (I ground the ends of the bolts down to a rounded point to help guide themselves into the seat to avoid cross-threading) which go all the way through from under the chassis. This first passes through a large diameter heavy-duty washer to help spread the load. It then passes up and screws directly into the captive nut on the seat. For good measure I also used LocTite on the bolts. This will prevent them from coming loose. Which is Good.

So, I have my seats bolted directly to the chassis rails, with only a layer of carpet between the seat and rail. I have no fore/aft adjustment, neither any backrest angle movement, but thankfully there won't be too many people driving it. Fortunately, the driving position I have is fine for me.

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Links:

Mantaray Motorsport Racing - Seatbracket

These brackets are designed to fit each vehicle perfectly. No need to drill into the floorboard. These brackets/sliders meet or exceed the manufacture's specs.