| Rear
- Tail Light - Grinding and Stretching |
Fletch
You
will see that the CRP tail light bucket / bezel makes the factory tail
lights prodroud out about 1/2" |
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| This
is the "before" photo showing the tail light bezel without being
stretched |
This
is the "after" photo showing the end results of stretching the
bezel 1/2". The lights are now flush with the bezel. |
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| This
is the bezel as it came with the kit, shows the rough edges as it came out
of the mold |
The
tail light was trimed up to fit the body |
Stretching
Process
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| Cut
the cone in half illustrated in this photo is the dashed line as the cutting
line. I marked an "X" on one and an "O" on the other,
to help me with placement. |
You
need to raise the centerpiece up a half-inch above the cut, to gain these
results I placed a roll of electrical tape on top of a can of paint inside
of the bezel and placed the top cut on top. OK this is not the most technical
method of measurement, but it works. |
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| This
photo illustrates my ½" gap all around, I did have to shim a
few outside corners, again grabbing what ever worked. |
The
next step is to cut the material woven fiberglass cloth, you will need two
strips 9" & 10" by 2". |
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| I
then dip and soak the cloth in the resin and laid it on the outside of the
bezel mold. |
Let
it sit and dry. My only suggestion is to check the alignment of your "X"
and also check the top to view and check the circular circumference (this
is why I only do one side at a time). |
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| When
it dries, you have completed the outside, now it is time for the inside.
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Filling
the inside gap - I cut out about 15 half-inch wide strips of fiberglass
material and apply them to the inside of the cone with resin. You can also
see that I grinded down the gel coating inside the light bezel. I could
not get the taillight to go inside the cup, so I used a Dermal tool to grind
down about 1/8" of material. |
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| To
get the light to fit into the bezal I had to grind out the inside wall |
Here
is the completed light after stretching |
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