Lamborghini SE 30 wing with flap.

Lamborghini 1998 SV.

photos by Keith Billanti there is no flap on this 99 Millennium Metallico Roadster

photos by Ron Boudreau - This is from a collection of photos of a 97 Roadster

Fletch

I intend to build my wing flap like Andy Bujtas, making the flap move with a flip of a switch or some how making the flap move up at a speed of 45mph or more.

Wing Section In this section I show methods of how to modify the wing, by cutting a section out of the bottom to install the actuator and also modifying the wing to allow a moveable flap to be installed.
FLAP Section This section will show you how I modified my fixed flap and modified it to allow it to move.
ACTUATOR Section This is the assembly and parts that make the flap operational (moveable). The actuator and levers that I used to make the flap move.

Below are the photos of my wing and flap that I got with my kit from CRP. The wing and flap have not been touched or modified... yet

Endre (Andy) Bujtas

As for my wing, the flap is now mounted to the wing. I've been working on the wing pylon mount. I used 1/4-20 coupling nuts and bonded them into the wing pylons. I used 8 of them - 4 pairs. The pairs are welded together to form 4 long nut-pairs. Currently, I'm waiting for the linear actuators to move the flap, but they are back-ordered until mid-April. They come from Select Products

They are the best that I could find - and the price is OK as well. Although they will set me back about $250, they are less costly than others. Some cost up to $900. I am quite certain they will fit inside the wing. The motor diamater is advertised at 1.25 inches and the inside space of the wing is not quite 1.5 inches. I will make a lever system inside the wing to multiply the force. I can get up to 8:1 leverage this way with a 25 lb actuator and 4 inches of stroke.

Andy has provided us with this his wing flap calculation spread sheet and this chart.

Wind Flap Unit - Unassembled

I wanted to make my wing flap functional and move up and down on demand. The flap frame is basically a steel tube (3/8 ID, 1/2 OD) with a 3/8 solid bar running through the center of the tube. This solid bar is welded to the lever and also acts as a stop for the pin compression springs. The 3/8 bar is sized so that I have a 4 inch tube depth. The solid bar is then affixed to the tubes using rosette welds along the tube edge. The end plates have a 1/2 hole to slide over the tube and then welded to the tube on the face and back. A screw will hold the wing flap to the shape of the side plate. The screw hole is countersunk so that the head is flush with the side.

To withstand the force of the air on the flap, I welded two 2 x 3 inch plates to the bar and drilled and tapped for flathead sockets. I cut slots in the wing flap using a Dremel tool so that these plates will slide into the flap. One thing to note, sometimes the 3/8 round bar will not easily fit into the tube. You will need to sand the bar down a bit so the it will slide easily into the tube. The same goes with the pivot pins. I do this by placing the pin onto the belt sander (against the stop) and allow the belt to rotate the pin as it is sanding it. Keep some slight pressure with your finger so that the pin rotates slowly and will not fly off. The flap lever I made myself from two 1/8 flat stock, drilled, cut and shaped together so that they are identical. The inner round surface was accomplished with a Dremel sanding drum.

This is how the wing flap hinge unit is assembled. The side pins will go into the wing side plate, which has a 3/8 inch tube for the rotation pin. The pin will be held into the tube by a compression spring. The retaining bolt is mainly used to lock the pin in place and to provide a means to pull the pin so that the flap assembly can be removed from the wing. What will move the flap up and down is an adjustable linkage with L/R threaded #10 rod ends. This came from a multi-carb linkage kit I purchased from PAW. An electric linear actuator inside the wind will move the inside lever. The inside lever will be 5 inches long, while the outside lever is 1.5 inches. You can get linear actuators that are only 1.5 inches high. This should fit inside the wing, which is a little over 1.5 in height space.

The whole thing costs around $400 in parts:
$250 for the SP Mini actuator (from Select Products)
$150 for the Weiand multi-carb linkage kit (from PAW)

Other parts:
1/2 OD - 3/8 ID round steel weldable tube (for wing flap support and pin housing, wing-side bushing and actuator bushing support)
3/8 solid round steel bar stock (for wing flap pins, wing flap support connection)
16 ga steel plate (for mechanism baseplate)
1/8 flat stock (for various areas: wing-side flap connection, wing flap ends, actuator lever arm)
Oiled bronze bushing for flap actuator shaft.
#4 X 3/8 SS screws for motor mount.

If you had all the parts in hand, it would take about 2 weeks to do the whole thing.

This picture shows the maximum angle the wing flap can be raised.

The wing flap in the down position.

Wing Flap Movement

In this picture I show the the range of movement of the wing flap. You can see the flap mounting plates that are bonded and screwed to the wing. They are made of 1/8 steel flat stock and shaped using a cardboard template I made of the wing shape in that area. As you can see at the wing movement lever, I had to notch the wing a bit to clear the lever. On the left side of the picture you can see the cut-out in the wing pylons. I had to make these cut-outs in order to bond-in the mounting nuts and to route the actuator wires. The cutouts will be bonded back in and smoothed-over.

Wing-Flap Assembly

This shows the assembled wing and flap. The tolerance between the wing and the flap are close, but the flap moves quite freely. I also made some mounting nuts made of 1/4 coupling nuts. I used 8 and welded them up into 4 pairs. This makes the nut (for the mounting screws) about 2 inches. I drilled some 7/16 holes in the wing pylon bottoms to insert these nuts. The were then bonded into the pylons with Fiberstrand while the the nuts were attached to the rear decklid with the mounting bolts. This way the coupling nuts will match the exact location of the mounting holes in the rear decklid.

Rear Decklid & Wing

This picture shows the rear decklid and wing assembly. You can see the underside of the wing and the opening for the wing flap actuator (currently backordered). The wing is held onto the decklid with 4 stainless steel 1/4-20 flat-head Phillips bolts. This way I don't have to worry about cutting the weather-stripping by using the stud & nut method. This way, nothing hangs down or sticks-out from under the decklid lip. I also replaced the SUSPA gas springs I got from IFG with NORMONTS. The SUSPA springs are 3/4 inch in diameter, while the MORMONTS are only 1/2 inch. They both are of the same force: 60 lbf. I replaced the SUSPAs because they were rubbing against the side of the decklid slightly. I wanted a bit more room, so I got the thinner NORMONTS. I also did some other work on the decklid - I replaced the 1x1 square "stiffener" tube with a 3/4 inch angle. This gave me more room to clear the rain gutter edge and now allows me to mount some form of weather seal at the engine compartment side. This angle piece was bonded and "glassed-in".

Actuator

This picture shows the parts that come with Select Products mini linear actuator. The motor is typically clamped-down, but I decided to make a mounting plate for the motor. The assembly fits nicely inside the IFG wing. The inside of the wing is about 1 3/8, so you are limited to what you can fit inside.

Actuator Assembly

This is my home-made wing flap actuator mechanism. The red lever is 7 inches long with 6 inches center-center distance between the bolts. The ratio is about 3:1.

Wing Flap Actuator

This is the underside of the wing showing the wing flap actuator. I'm using a multi-carb linkage kit to connect the pieces.

Flap Powered Up

In this picture you can see how the actuator pushes and raises the flap.

Wing is Finished!

The wing is finally finished. The actuator is built and tested. I used my cordless drill battery (12V) to test the wing flap. Works great!

Dale Van Blokland

I fabricated the wing rod by taking a #10 rod coupler and drilled and tapped a #10 x 32 hole through the side to accept a #10 allen head stainless steel screw. I then cut a notch to go around the tab on the wing and the wing leg. I cut and treaded a rod to fit the #10 x24 rod coupler. I put a #10 nut on one end of the threads to act as a lock nut. I can now adjust the wing flap based on how the rod is threaded.

I created two metal ends and welded a rod between them. This will be drilled to accept a 1/4" rod for the hinge pin. I fabricated a connection point that will allow me to adjust the wing. This required slotting the wing flap. I then fiber glassed the rod into the wing flap. The wing itself was filled with foam to fill the cavity. I then used fiberglass mat to fill in the area that was open. I had also fastened metal plates into the edge of the wing to accept the hinge pin. I will fabricate a rod to tie from the wing strut to the wing flap which will allow me to adjust it.

I created two metal ends and welded a rod between them. This will be drilled to accept a 1/4" rod for the hinge pin. I fabricated a connection point that will allow me to adjust the wing. This required slotting the wing flap. I then fiber glassed the rod into the wing flap. The wing itself was filled with foam to fill the cavity. I then used fiberglass mat to fill in the area that was open. I had also fastened metal plates into the edge of the wing to accept the hinge pin. I will fabricate a rod to tie from the wing strut to the wing flap which will allow me to adjust it.

As promised, I finished the wiring diagram on how to connect the lamborghini lights. I have created a PDF file. You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader which is a free download.